Honey bees have been disappearing worldwide, and in record numbers. It is a baffling mystery because the beeds aren't found dead or sick ... the hives are just empty. Beekeepers and farmers are panicked by the disappearance that has been named "Colony Collapse Disorder" (CCD).
Potential culprits are debated, with causes asfar ranging as climate change and mutated viruses to pesticides and even cell phone signals. But the answer is elusive.
What most people don't know is that honey bees are not "native" bees in most parts of the world. These hard working "domesticated" bees actually originated in Europe and have been transported around the world to help pollinate crops. Native bees are also available around the world, and are usually solitary little critters. They don't mass in hives -- so they haven't been good for honey production and not domesticated for pollination, either. But pollinate, they do! Most of nature relies on native bee pollination.
One of these native bees in the US is the Orchard Mason Bee.
Mason bee nesting blocks are available at Clean Air Gardening today for $19.99
Learn more about Orchard Mason Bees at the NCSU.edu website.
The Orchard Mason Bee is the common name of a nonsocial native bee
(Osmia lignaria ssp.) that pollinates our spring fruit trees, flowers
and vegetables. This gentle, blue-black metallic bee does not live in hives.
In nature it nests within hollow stems, woodpecker drillings and insect
holes found in trees or wood. Sometimes there may be dense collections
of individual nest holes, but these bees neither connect or share nests,
nor help provision or protect each others' young. Also, they are active
for only a short period of the year. 
They are not aggressive and one may
observe them at very close range without fear of being stung, which makes
them excellent for enhancing our yards and gardens. They add beauty, activity
and pollination to our plantings. However, they do not produce honey.

The female Orchard Mason Bee visits flowers to collect pollen for its
young. She forms a small ball of pollen and nectar in the back of the nesting
tube and lays an egg on the ball. She then collects mud to form a cell
partition and repeats the pollen ball-egg laying process until she reaches
the mouth of the tube where she caps the end with mud.
Nest Block Construction
The native eastern species of Orchard Mason Bee will nest in holes drilled
in a wooden block. Untreated 4" x 6" lumber works great. Holes can be drilled
in the wood on 3/4 inch centers. They should be 4-8" deep (depending upon the
size lumber used), smooth, and a 5/16" diameter hole is important. A smaller
hole encourages higher production of male bees which reduces the reproductive
potential of the population. Blocks may be drilled from either face giving shallower
or deeper holes. Shallower holes may produce more male bees. Do not drill completely
through the lumber. Drill the hole to a depth about 1/2 inch from the back of
the block. Attach a roof to provide protection from the midday sun and rain.
Outside surfaces may be painted or stained, but do not use wood preservatives.
One hole may be drilled in the back to provide a means of hanging the block.
Face nesting blocks as close to the southeast direction as possible to catch
morning sun and affix it firmly so that it does not sway in the wind. It should
be located at least three feet above the ground.
These bees need mud to construct cell partitions, so adding a mud supply may
be helpful if needed. This can be a trench or tub located nearby where muddy
soil is maintained during the nesting period. The mud should not be highly organic
or sandy. Clay soils work well.
Do not move the blocks during the weeks of active nesting. Once all
nesting activity has stopped, the nesting block may be moved to a shelter
such as a shed or unheated garage. Be gentle when moving occupied
blocks at this time of year. This will give the bees added protection from
predators and parasites, yet will allow them exposure to the cold temperatures
that they need to break hibernation. If desired, bee emergence can be delayed
for a short period by refrigerating the block in the spring until you are
ready for the bees to emerge. Bees will need three days to warm up following
refrigeration.
Orchard Bees are sometimes reared in cardboard tubes, hollow reeds, or straws.
Cardboard tubes and straws need more protection from weather and parasites.
Paper straws allow better inspection and manipulation. Plastic straws hold moisture
and allow mold to develop and are not recommended. Bees may also be purchased
commercially.
You can be creative with your nesting blocks. Blocks can be made from
any shape wood. They may be cut to a fancy shape, be a small piece of dead
tree limb, fence post or scrap of firewood. You can vary the diameter of
the drilled holes to attract different species of tube-nesting bees or
nonsocial, beneficial wasps.
Your Local, Native Bees
Bee species vary by ecosystem and location. You can foster native bees that pollinate agricultural and wilderness plants by learning about your own local species and providing them with habitat. Habitat includes plants for foraging (for both food and nesting) and even houses to encourage their prolific reproduction to keep pace with the need in local agriculture.
You can also help the native bee population by educating gardeners, lawn care professionals, farmers and homeowners about preventing unnecessary death of these bees with chemicals. Pesticides, fertilizers and other chemicals kill beneficial insects as well as unwanted insects. By choosing to use Integrated Pest Management practices, we can foster beneficial insect populations, reduce toxins in our water and soil systems...and maintain the balance of species required to foster a thriving ecosystem.
You can help remodel your lawn and garden for natural habitat!
Your work can be in spurts..but very important!